Neighborhood sushi

Wednesday, December 16, 2009

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The interior of Tomo Sushi on Parmer Lane is clean and spare, with a glowing tank of ersatz jellyfish by the front door.

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(Mike Sutter AMERICAN-STATESMAN)

The interior of Tomo Sushi on Parmer Lane is clean and spare, with a glowing tank of ersatz jellyfish by the front door.

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(Mike Sutter AMERICAN-STATESMAN)

A baked dish called Dynamite, described on the menu as having baked scallop, shrimp and mushroom in a special Tomo sauce.

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(Mike Sutter AMERICAN-STATESMAN)

The Who's Your Daddy Roll is topped with salmon and is filled with rice, spicy tuna and asparagus and topped with a spicy cream sauce.

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(Mike Sutter AMERICAN-STATESMAN)

A dinner entree of teriyaki chicken.

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(Mike Sutter AMERICAN-STATESMAN)

The Austin Roll is qrapped in rice paper and features calamari tempura, eel, scallop and ahi.

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(Mike Sutter AMERICAN-STATESMAN)

A sushi dinner with eight pieces of nigiri sushi and a spicy tuna roll.

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(Mike Sutter AMERICAN-STATESMAN)

Nagoya Steak & Sushi on RM 620 in Cedar Park is clean and bright, with mass-market signage and plenty of parking.

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(Mike Sutter AMERICAN-STATESMAN)

The tuna, salmon and yellowtail inside the Out of Control Roll suffered sensory smoke damage from the torch applied to the layered fish on the outside, like it had been blazed with a Zippo lighter, leaving the impression of petrol on the tongue. The mismatched yuzo, spicy mayonnaise and brown sauces offered no relief.

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(Mike Sutter AMERICAN-STATESMAN)

The Cedar Park Roll: cooked crawfish, spicy orange mayo and chopped crab rolled in rice and seaweed and poorly fried.

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(Mike Sutter AMERICAN-STATESMAN)

A selection of nigiri sushi. Clockwise from bottom left: yellowtail, octopus, eel and white tuna.

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(Mike Sutter AMERICAN-STATESMAN)

Izumi Japanese Sushi & Grill in West Lake Hills. It's located next to the H-E-B Westlake Market.

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(Mike Sutter AMERICAN-STATESMAN)

The Geisha Roll: with three earth-toned sauces on a seaweed roll filled with a crazy quilt of eel, tuna, salmon and yellow radish. The flavor matched the look, unfocused but satisfying, with sweet, savory and vegetal tones playing tag.

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(Mike Sutter AMERICAN-STATESMAN)

Salmon teriyaki bento box, with tempura shrimp and veggies, dumplings, a spicy tuna sushi roll and salmon teriyaki. Served with miso soup and salad.

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(Mike Sutter AMERICAN-STATESMAN)

Two kinds of elegantly cut nigiri susi. Bottom: escolar. Top: Japanese snapper.

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(Mike Sutter AMERICAN-STATESMAN)

Nigiri sushi made with albacore.

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(Mike Sutter AMERICAN-STATESMAN)

The Westlake Hill Roll, a tall sail of cucumber steering a circled flotilla of kaleidoscope slices on a ponzu lagoon. Imagine cutting a cucumber into an even blanket of wrapping paper and you get a sense of the skill behind this roll's exterior. Inside, asparagus and minced crab worked with fresh tuna, salmon and yellowtail to create flavors smart enough to fit the presentation.

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